Wyoming

On a little adventure to Wyoming: National Historic Trails Interpretive Center; Casper, Wyoming

/ Terry / 1 Comment

“Some men walked with whips to drive the team of animals puilling the wagon or to herd the stock. Many emigrants brought with them sheep, pigs, and cows to provide fresh meat and milk during the long journey.”

We hear of the Tiny House movement now but never think how the pioneers had to weed out all the unnecessary items of their former life for a life of hardship on the 2,170-mile (3,490 km) journey that lasted approximately 4 to 6 months and if started in the wrong season, longer. These men, women and children not only carried their personal belongings in their wagon or cart but also food and wagon parts. There were not many stores or trading posts along the perilous route. Most had no room in the wagons to sleep so they slept on the ground under the wagons or in tents.

According to the 1863 handbook “The Prairie Traveler” by Captain Randolph B. Marcy they should carry: Wrought Iron camp kettle, large enough for boiling meat and making soup; a coffee pot and cups of heavy tin, with the handles riveted on; tin plates; frying and bake pans of wrought iron, the latter for baking bread and roasting coffee; a pan of heavy tin or wrought iron for mixing bread and other culinary purposes; knives, forks and spoons; an extra camp kettle; tin or gutta percha (gum tree) bucket for water – wood being liable to shrink and fail to pieces is not deemed suitable; an axe; hatchet; a spade, mallet and matches; extra parts for the wagons such as covered tar buckets for tar, resin and grease; two bows, six “S”-hooks; a king bolt and wagon other supplies.

“When you start over these wide plains, let no one leave dependent on his friend for anything; for if you do, you will certainly have a blow-out before you get far.” – John Shively, 1846

The Westward Pioneer Trails in the north consisted of the Oregon, Mormon, California and Pony Express Routes which passed through Casper, Wyoming on their way west. Casper had in place a military presence at a garrison , a trading post and some settlers. At this point settlers heading to California and Oregon had only completed one third of their journey, while the Mormons bound for Salt Lake City, Utah had completed half of theirs. But crossing the Platt River at this location they faced a perilous crossing either by fording the river and possibly losing their wagon and animals or by paying as much as $5 per wagon to cross by ferry or bridge, a fortune back in the mid 1800’s.

Visiting this 11,000 S.F. (1,000 m2) Museum you will be able to discover what life was like on the Oregon, California, Mormon and Pony Express Trails that brought settlers to the west coast in covered wagons and hand pulled carts. With 8 galleries, temporary exhibits and an 18-minute multimedia film, “Footsteps to the West” that explains the trials and tribulations of life along the trail in the theater. 

Allow 1-2 hours to understand what hardships these pioneers faced. The museum contains hands on exhibits for all ages:

you can sit in a covered wagon as it bounces across a river; 

pull a loaded Mormon Cart to see how difficult it was; 

Mormon Handcart

sit in a replica stagecoach; feel how heavy a backpack loaded with supplies that the pioneers carried as they walked across the plains on foot;

determine what is needed for the journey west;

see how they calculated miles;

Learn a bit of the native cultures and their way of life on the prairie;

 See the medicines that were taken on the trail;

And many more hands-on displays that capture the real-life adventure of over 400,000 settlers between 1841 and 1868.

Opening August 9, 2002 and operated by the Bureau of Land Management it was a joint private and public partnership with the BLM, the National Historic Trails Foundation and the City of Casper, Wyoming commemorating Native American History, early explorers and the Trails corridors.

This is a free museum to enter but I highly recommend if you enjoy your visit please leave a donation at the entry to help offset the cost of maintenance and for future upgrades. I found staff and volunteers were all helpful and friendly on the day of my visit. Take the time to talk to them, they have knowledge of the area and local events. If you are interested in local and early American History this is a nice place to visit.

On a little adventure to Wyoming: INDEPENDENCE ROCK STATE HISTORICAL PARK – WYOMING

/ Terry / 3 Comments

One of the most-noted landmarks on the emigrant trails west of Fort Laramie, Independence Rock is an oval outcrop of granite rock that is 1,900 feet long (579m), 700 feet wide (213.36m), and rises 128 feet (39m) above the surrounding landscape, standing 6,028 feet (1,808.3m) above sea level, with an area of 24.81 acres (9.924 ha). There is a trail surrounding the base of the rock that is more than a mile (1.8km) in length. Pioneer traveler J. Goldsborough Bruff said it looked “like a huge whale” from a distance.

You are welcome to climb the rock but be very careful of not walking on or damaging any engravings. It was a breathtaking view from the summit of the rock with many names carved into the face of the granite. I spent about and hour at the top then climbing down I circled the rock on the trail at the base. Make the effort it is well worth the time. Some scrambling is required so be prepared with proper footwear.

As the approximate midpoint of the Oregon Trail between the Missouri River and the Pacific Ocean the rumor was that the emigrants needed to reach here by July 4 to pass safely through the Sierra Nevada Mountains before winter storms hit, hence one story of its name. But emigrants arrived at this site throughout the traveling season. Another naming story was that William Sublette who held an Independence Day celebration here on July 4, 1830, as he led the first wagon train to cross the new overland route. Before an audience of 80 pioneers, he christened the rock in honor of the birth date of our nation. Another popular legend says Its name actually comes from a party of fur trappers who camped here on July 4, 1824. Take you pick of the naming of the rock I’m sure there are many others.

Independence Rock State Historic Site is on the south side of State Route 220 at the Independence Rock Rest Area. Independence Rock is in an area of windblown sand and silt that has grooved and polished the granite to a high gloss. This smoother surface let the pioneers easily carve their names into the rock. It was the approximately 5,000 names carved in stone here that caused Father Peter J. DeSmet to appropriately name this place “The Register of the Desert” in 1840, thus becoming a part of our pioneering history. One of the earliest signatures is a carving dated 1824 by M. K. Hugh. Register Cliff and Names Hill in other locations along the Oregon Trail also contain names left by the pioneers. Independence Rock was a popular camping site for the travelers. 

Fur trapper Rufus B. Sage noted that “the surface is covered with names of travelers, traders, trappers and emigrants, engraved upon it in almost every practicable part, for the distance of many feet above its base….”

On August 1, 1843 John C. Fremont, who camped a mile below this site, made this entry in the journal of his 1843-’44 expedition: “Everywhere within six or eight feet of the ground, where the surface is sufficiently smooth, and in some places sixty or eighty feet above, the rock is inscribed with the names of travelers. Many a name famous in the history of this country, and some well-known to science, are to be found among those of traders and travelers.”

Names were placed on the rock through engraving or by painting them with wagon grease, tar or a combination of buffalo grease and glue. Over the years many of these names have flaked off, been damaged, cleansed off by wind or rain or been obscured by lichens. Despite this, thousands of names remain and are a source of delight to those visitors who climb the rock.

On July 4, 1862, Independence Rock, was the site of Wyoming’s first Masonic Lodge meeting and in the 1950’s the Boy Scouts held their annual Jamboree here camped along the base of the rock.

On a little adventure to Wyoming: FOSSIL BUTTE NATIONAL MONUMENT

/ Terry / 4 Comments

On my way there I had 2 mornings of glorious sunrises to greet me on my drive from Washington State to Wyoming.

Managed by the National Park Service, Fossil Butte National Monument, was established on October 23 1972 and is located in southwest Wyoming. This monument holds one of the largest deposits of freshwater fish fossils in the world from the Eocene Epoch, 34 to 56 million years ago. In prehistoric times, this part of Wyoming was a sub-tropical lake ecosystem with calm waters, lack of scavengers and a fine sediment that all worked together to create conditions perfect for preserving fossils from the Cenozoic aquatic communities of North America.

For over the two million years Fossil Lake covered an area of 40 to 50 miles (64 to 80 k) long north to south and 20 miles (32 k) wide of southwest Wyoming. Today less than 1.5% of Fossil Lake is protected and managed by the National Park Service. Fossil Butte National Monument promotes the protection of this world-class archeological heritage. The Monument contains only 8,198 acres (33,180,000 m2) of the 595,200 acres (2.409×109 m2) of ancient lakebed. The Green River Formation’s ancient subtropical freshwater lake bed preserved 27 species of fish, 2 bat species,10 mammal species,15 species of reptiles that include turtles, lizards, crocodilians, and snakes, 2 extremely rare amphibian species have been identified, insects including spiders, dragonflies and damselflies, crickets’ stoneflies, true bugs, beetles, wasps, bees, ants, moths, butterflies and flies and plants. As major indicators of climate, plants are allowing scientists to study the ancient ecology of the Fossil Lake area. 

When fossils were discovered, coal miners in the area dug them up and sold them to collectors. Commercial and private fossil collecting is not allowed within the National Monument, although private quarries nearby continue to produce fossil specimens, both for museums and for private collectors.

There are over 80 fossils and casts on display in the Monument’s Visitor Center and a 13-minute video showing how fossils are found and what has been learned along with interactive exhibits. During the summer, lab personnel prepare fossils in public. Summer activities also include ranger programs, hikes, paleontology and geology talks, and participation in fossil quarry collections for the park. 

The base of Fossil Butte is defined by the bright red, purple, yellow and gray beds of the Wasatch Formation. Eroded portions of these horizontal beds slope gradually upward from the valley floor and steepen abruptly. Overlying them and extending to the top of the butte are the much steeper buff-to-white beds of the Green River Formation, which are about 300 feet thick. 

Quarry programs take place Fridays and Saturdays mid-June through late August between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. If you wish to learn about the research and help search for fossils, meet at the Nature Trail and hike a half mile (0.8 k) to the quarry. All fossils found during the program are collected and contributed to the site’s scientific research.

There are several maintained hiking trails less than 3-miles (4.8k) long and two-track dirt roads (closed to vehicles) that spur off Scenic Drive. Scenic Drive is paved until the Nature Trail then it becomes a dirt/gravel road continuing to the north boundary of the Monument. All hikes allow visitors to take in the site’s unique landscape and geological features. Remember if fossils are discovered do not disturb them and inform a ranger as to the location, so that a qualified team can investigate and determine how to handle the fossil.